The downfall of the old East Prussian capital of Königsberg, once one of Europe’s most beautiful cities, began with the British bombing raid in August 1944. Heavy fighting for “Fortress Königsberg” was followed by its capture on April 9, 1945, by the Red Army, which was succeeded by days of uncontrolled cruelty toward the remaining German population (approx. 100,000 out of 380,000 inhabitants). The revenge of the Soviet people was unleashed with full force and severity. Afterward: hunger and cholera. Approximately 25,000 Germans survived. Königsberg became Soviet, but essentially Russian. There were celebrations and expulsions, destruction and demolition, planning and reconstruction.
Today, after nearly 50 years as a restricted area and located only 600 kilometers from Berlin but 1,200 kilometers from Moscow, the West feels closer than Russia to many Kaliningraders.
In 2005/2006, a double anniversary coincided in a coincidental or ironic way: the old Hanseatic and residential city of Königsberg in Prussia turned 750 years old. At the same time, it has been 60 years (July 4, 1946) since the Soviet dictator Stalin renamed the city after his companion Mikhail Kalinin: Kaliningrad.
Today, the Kaliningrad region—northern East Prussia—lies like an island in the midst of the new EU countries. Following the initial heated debates in the mid-1990s, renaming the city to Kenigsberg (Russian for Königsberg) is currently not an issue. The proposal Kantgrad (Kantstadt), named after the Königsberg philosopher Immanuel Kant, was also discussed (and to some extent still is). Quietly and naturally, however, the younger generation is reclaiming the city—calling it Kenig City or simply Kenig.
The City of K. has many faces, but only one soul. The photographs show the awakening of this soul after its death throes, wounding, suppression, and slow recovery.
Old Königsberg—marred, neglected, or lovingly restored; new Kaliningrad—architecturally flawed, partially planned with people in mind, now almost Western and increasingly chic. And within it, a warm and open population. (A.B.)
“…and that you, Königsberg, are not mortal!” (Agnes Miegel)
